Skip to main content

Goblin Game for Nick

Hi Nick!

I did a quick and dirty analysis of Goblin Game for you.  In order to do so I had to make some assumptions. 

1) Neither player knows what the other is likely to bid
2) You both are at 20 to start
3) Your bidding is limited by how many things you can hold in your hand covertly, I assumed 10.

I know #2 isn't super likely, given the converted cost of 7, but I had to start somewhere, and we can discuss how it changes with different starting totals without redoing all of the math. 

So here's a chart of what happens when you bid any given number, and your opponent bids randomly between 1 and 10.  While their bid won't be random, of course, it might as well be as your knowledge of it is none.


Your BidAverage LossOpp Avg LossDiff
110.96.4-4.5
210.17.4-2.7
3108.2-1.8
49.48.9-0.5
59.59.60.1
69.210.31.1
79.410.91.5
89.411.52.1
99.7122.3
101012.52.5

So to get the most bang for your buck, you're going to want to bid high.  Of course, in reality you can also intimate from game clues and context clues and super secret Rounders-level tell reading about what your opponent will bid, and try to bid just above them.  

Here's the same chart in graph form, because graphs!

Now, to address the reality of the situation:

If your life totals are unequal, things get trickier.  A player with less total life risks less by wagering low (because the penalty of losing half is less in absolute terms), but exposes themselves to greater danger because of the relative danger of getting dead from your opponents' tricks.   On the other hand, if you have a lower life total relative to your opponent, you can be locked into the losing bid by an opponent who bids higher than your overall life total.  

In general, as your life decreases, you should bid lower.  For example, a player with 5 life can bid 1 with more impunity than a player at 20.  Usually, bidding 1 is a bad idea, but as your life score gets lower, it becomes less of a bad idea.

One final note, the minimum you (and your opponent) can lose is 2 life.  If your opponent is at 2 and you're at more than 2, just bid 1 and you win!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Special: Vassal

Decision: Should You Play Shadespire on Vassal? TL; DR: Yeah, it's pretty good - especially if you're in North America. Prologue Prior to picking up Shadespire, I played Legend of the Five Rings (the AEG version) for 20 years.  When FFG bought the game and rebooted it, I gave it a fair shake, and then decided to part ways with my oldest hobby.  A month before Gencon 2018, I decided to play Shadespire instead of L5R, and haven't put it down since. When I was playing L5R regularly, my playgroup traveled several times a year to play in large regional tournaments.  I had assumed this would be the case with Shadespire as well, but as most North American players can attest to - tournaments are pretty scarce in these parts.  (Whereas in England, you can't swing a soggy umbrella without hitting a Shadespire tournament). So, to keep up skill for the few tournaments I can attend ( SCO is next!), I started looking for ways to play online.  Luckily, a few wee

Hex and the City: Extreme Flank

Decision: How should I place my board to optimize Extreme Flank?   TL;DR:    This one for when you lose the rolloff or if you like your boards in the rectangular (non-offset) short board layout: Otherwise, this one: Prelude: Understanding Extreme Flank The first obstacle that needs to be overcome in order to properly set up for scoring Extreme Flank is to understand how the card actually works.  It's quite poorly worded and the resulting methods of scoring can be counter-intuitive.   Luckily, someone made this excellent little diagram to help us understand how to score it: In the above diagram, if your fighter is on a blue edge, they can only score Extreme Flank if your other fighter is on the green edge.  Note that the bottom layouts are mirrors of the top layouts.  This is important because the order in which you choose fighter matters .  For example, using the left diagrams, if you have a fighter on p4 and a fighter on p1 you can only score extreme flank if

Hex and the City: The Herbaceous Checkerboard

Decision: Should you play the New Board "The Herbaceous Checkerboard"?   TL;DR The warbands likely to get the most use out of this board are ones that have a small number of models and easy-to-score passive/defensive objectives; ie. the Sigmarite warbands.  Small aggro warbands like Orcs and Magore's may also benefit from using this board.  Other warbands likely have better options. Prelude Today, we'll be taking a look at one of the two new boards being released for Shadespire - The Herbaceous Checkerboard (the other board - the one with the blue - is called The Lachrymose Tetrahedron ).  For the purposes of referring to the board, we'll be using the above orientation as the default, and referring to specific edges and directions using a NESW system based on this orientation. Factor: Edge Hexes Right out of the box, we get to look at what is probably the most attractive feature of this board.  While having 4 starting-edge hexes is not partic